[SINAI DESERT - RHODE ISLAND TRAVELLER] [Historically Significant Collection of Three Original Content-Rich Autograph Letters Signed by a Young Rhode Island Upper-Class Man, Describing His Travels Across the Ottoman Empire, with a Lenghty 16-Page Account
JENKINS, Moses Brown (1835-1895).
Athens, 6 February 1859, 22 February 1859; Cairo, May 10th, 1859.
Complete title: [SINAI DESERT - RHODE ISLAND TRAVELLER] [Historically Significant Collection of Three Original Content-Rich Autograph Letters Signed by a Young Rhode Island Upper-Class Man, Describing His Travels Across the Ottoman Empire, with a Lenghty 16-Page Account of His Trip from Jerusalem to Gaza and Thence to Suez across the Sinai Desert, and Letters about Travels in Greece, As Well As Impressions on Constantinople, Turkish Women and Baths].
Three original authograph letters signed, all Octavo (ca. 20,5x13 cm or 9 ¾ x 7 ¾ in), in all seven bifoliums. 4, 8, 16 = 28 pp. Brown ink on watermarked laid paper; all bifoliums with the author’s colour-stamped monograms in the left upper corners of the first leaves. With an original envelope to one of the letters, with a loss of the upper right corner, but the addressee can be identified as “Mrs. Thom[mas Hoppin], Providence, Rhode Island, United States of America;” with several ink postal stamps from Marseille, Paris, Boston, &c. Foldmarks, occasional minor splits on folds, paper slightly age-toned, but overall, very good letters written in a legible hand. With a four-page portion of Jenkins’ letter describing his stay in Constantinople.
Historically significant collection of extensive captivating letters from a young affluent Rhode Island resident, Moses Brown Jenkins, describing his travels around the Ottoman Empire in 1859. The heir of the pioneering 18th-century Rhode Island textile firm “Almy & Brown,” founded by his great-grandfather Moses Brown (1738-1836), Moses Brown Jenkins inherited the estate at the age of 14. He studied at Yale College and graduated from Brown University in 1855. In 1859, he travelled around the Mediterranean and the Middle East. Coming from a notable Quaker family, Moses nevertheless took part in the American Civil War together with the Union Army, enlisting in the 1st Rhode Island Detached Militia in April 1861. His albumen carte-de-visite portrait in the Civil War military uniform and with a haversack with his name was published in the “Civil War Monitor” magazine (Million-Dollar Soldier// Civil War Monitor. Winter 2019; https://www.civilwarmonitor.com/article/moses-brown-jenkins-million-dollar-soldier/).
The letters were written to Jenkins’ elder sister, Anna Almy Jenkins (1831-1919, married Thomas Hoppin in 1852), who inherited her brother’s estate after his death in 1895. The extensive letter written in Cairo gives a detailed account of Jenkins’ travel by horse and camel from Jerusalem to Gaza and thence to Suez via the Sinai desert in the spring of 1859, talking about orange gardens in Jaffa, dangers of travelling and necessity of hiring a “Bedouin sheik” to escort the party, rising outrage against Christians in the Ottoman Empire after the 1858 Jeddah massacre, skills of camel riding, mirages and heat in the desert, “hot burning wind which came into your face like a blast from an oven,” hardships on the last leg of the trip approaching Suez, extremes of the Khamsin wind, “the horror of thirst” and astonishment on the comforts of travelling in a train of the Suez & Cairo Railway.
The letters written in Athens in February 1859 describe Jenkins’ trips to Thermopylae and Corinth, and his party stays in private houses on the way; a fragment of the letter from Constantinople contains lively notes on the Ottoman Sultan’s procession, “exceedingly lively and coquettish” Turkish women and “delightful effects” of a Turkish bath.
Overall a lively, content-rich account of travels around Greece, Turkey, Palestine and Sinai desert by a young upper-class American man.
Excerpts from the letters:
“Cairo, May 10th 1859.
Dearest Anna, I came safely across the desert, and arrive here from Suez on Friday last. <…> it had been just about four months since I had heard anything from you. During this time I had been travelling through Syria, the Holy Land, and had come across desert, and I was truly anxious to hear from you. <…> For travelling as I had been on horseback and on camels during the long days from sunrise to sunset, I had ample times for reflection, and often, very often my thoughts turned homeward. Particularly on the desert where rocking to and for by the monotonous gait of the camel, surrounded by the hot and burning plains and hills of sand, without one shrub to relieve the eye, I sometimes had one train of thought or dreamed upon one subject for hours and hours together – and this was often of you at home and what you were doing, and how you were <…>
I believe I have posted you up in my wanderings as far as Jerusalem at the end of the Holy week, and also written you of our intention to cross the desert. Gaza is the point where camels are taken and as there are several routes there we determined to go by the way of Philistia which is the longest, but which enables you to see one of the most fertile countries in the East. We left Jerusalem on horseback and the second day were at Jaffa. This is the ancient Joppa where St. Paul so often was, and here you are shown the spot where the Whale cast up his accounts with Jonah.
Upon entering Jaffa we past (sic!) for miles through lanes hedged on either side by the cactus in full flower, enclosing groves of orange and lemon trees with the ripe fruit hanging from their boughs contrasting beautifully with the green leaves and emitting delightful perfumes. We then continued our way through fields of grain and at the end of the fourth day from Jerusalem arrived at Gaza. Here we dismounted from our horses for the last time as camels were to be our means of conveyance to Suez. Here also the services of a very important personage had to be engaged that of a Sheik or chief of the tribe of Bedouins (through whose country you pass) who accompanies you and upon receiving a sum of money protects you from any outrage on the part of his tribe. As I knew I would make you anxious Dearest Anna I did not like to inform you that this precaution was also necessary in Palestine, in the country around Jerusalem, which is perhaps the most dangerous we have passed through, and also that in travelling through Syria we had to have a guard at our tent by night and an escort by day.
For since the massacre last year feeling has been very strong against the Christians and a rising may be expected at any time. It is so dangerous that many consuls dissuade travellers from going through Syria and Palestine this year. Much of this danger is avoided by engaging the services of this sheik – that is as some traveller has said, “to ensure your safety in this country you must allow yourself to be robbed before starting.” Each party has to engage with its sheik who only protects the party who paysm and to give you an idea of what precious rascals they are – when we were going down from Jerico to the Jordan to see the pilgrims bathe, under the protection of out chief, an English clergyman belonging to a party which had encamped near us the night before (which had gone on without him) joined us to have chat as we trotted along. I observed our sheik in close consultation with our dragoman, and upon asking “Beetros” what he was talking about he told me that our chief wanted him to make us go on in advance or fall behind so that he might rob the clergyman. Little did that mild young English person, as he conversed so blandly with us know of the plot being laid for him.
Well, after the necessary delay for procuring water and other requisites for life on the desert, we mounted our Camels one fine morning and moved slowly out of the picturesque little town of Gaza. The mountings which I have so often read of as terrible, is easy enough after all. All you have to do is to hold on firmly to your saddle as your camel gets up from his kneeling position. For the first few days when he gets down it is most dangerous, and once or twice, I narrowly escaped being thrown over his head by the sudden jerk he makes when kneeling on his fore legs. Our first day we went on well enough and made about seven hours before we encamped, so with the second, but on this third day our troubles began. We had been travelling about four hours when one of our camels gave out on account of the excessive heat, and we were obliged to pitch our tents, and remain until the next morning. On the following day about noon we found the heat insupportable and were obliged to stop again.
Now we at once saw that going on in this way we should be double the time expected in getting to Suez, and as we determined upon getting up earlier and making more time before the sun was as hot, arranging our hour of rising from five o'clock (which seems early enough in civilized countries) to then we breakfasted by candle light, and were through our pipes, and away on our journey along before the sun showed itself above the sandy plain – halting at noon for dinner, and going on when it was cooler in the latter part of the day. Thus we made about nine hours a day, and everything went on finely. The Motion of the Camel is exceeding[ly] fatiguing at first, but one becomes accustomed to it after a few days.
The days seem very long as you go stalking over the desert, with nothing to relieve the eye from the hot glare of the sun upon the sand, with nothing to be seen, but an occasional Mirage when one sees what seem to be green trees, and beautiful lakes studded with islands which vanish upon approaching, and leave you nothing but the cloudless sky and the burning glare of the sun upon the sand. We did not have a thermometer with us, but I was told by a gentleman in Jerusalem who had just come across the desert that it then went up with them to 130° in the shade, and I have no doubt that for several days we experienced the same heat. And with this heat we had a hot burning wind which came into your face like a blast from an oven.
Our Caravan consisted of ten camels, and it was curious to watch the train. Four of our camels were laden with our provisions, tents, bedding &c, and the others were ridden by our party, and we went along as we liked in no particular order - but as it happened a very brisk camel who was on the lead, was laden with our 'live-stock' which consisted of a large quantity of fowls (at first) in an immense hen coop, whose number however swiftly diminished as we advanced on the journey. These poor things certainly had a hard time of bobbing up and down all day in their overcrowded enclosure on a camel’s back, in the hot sun.
What a change in their habits, from the quiet and secluded life of a barn yard, and their miseries did not end with the day, for at night they the coop was placed in full view of the fire. so that after two or three of their number had been snatched away by the ruthless hand of our Cook, they could watch his execution, and their after fate. Perhaps they came from the same barn yard and were connected by some mild dear ties. Fancy their feelings, as they perhaps saw an esteemed friend being made into soup, or a well beloved uncle converted into a fricassee.
On evening just before encamping, after a glorious day of travel from Jerusalem, our Dragoman Beetros discovered in the far horizon, above the plain of sand the Hill of Suez, which was hailed with as much delight, and enthusiasm, as the City of “Land Ho!” after a voyage at sea. We went to bed that night determined to sleep, at Suez the following night, and with the delightful conscience that this would probably be the last time we should sleep in a tent for some time to come. And I assure that after a month of this sort of life to me the prospect was agreeable.
We rose up about two and had been some time in our journey when the sun rose red and hot with the cloudless sky. The appearance of the sand was curious, instead of being a plain for miles about us as before, it appeared as if the wind had blown it up into mountains or drifts like snow. It was so mountainous that for the first two hours we had to send two men in advance to find out where we could cross these mountain ridges, for the sand was so soft, that the camels sunk deeply into it, and being heavily laden it was too fatiguing for them to ascend or descend in some places.
We journeyed on in this way until noon when we encamped for four hours. By this time the wind had increased and for the first time we really knew what a "Khamssein" was. As we laid down in our tents in the middle of the day a hot wind blew which parched our mouths and rendered it necessary for us to moisten them constantly from our leather water-jug. This was filled, and as we were using it rather freely our Dragoman informed us that it was the last of our water. We emptied, before starting, thinking that we had only four hours to Suez, and depending on the mean time upon the oranges which we each had out of our supply.
We journeyed on, on over the apparently never ending hills of sand, the "Khamssein" or hot wind increasing to a gale - where upon inquiring Beetros told us that we had still six hours, to get on sooner was impossible on account of this sand.
The hot wind blew the sand from the top of the drift like snow about us, and as the sun went down the wind and heat only increased. There was no alternative but to go on, as we were out of water. Then and only then, as our guide went on to discover a way for our camels over the trackless hills of sand, did I experience the horror of thirst. I however had one orange left and sucked its juice. It proved its refreshing qualities as we journeyed on over those hills of sand with the hot wind blowing until half past one in the morning.
The lights of town seemed as if we should never reach them. For three long hours they seemed to occupy the same position, but at last we heard the distant barking of dogs which indicated our near approach, and soon the number of the lights increased, and we came to a halt near the gate of Suez.
A man was immediately despatched for water - and never shall I forget how that water tasted to my parched mouth, as I drank it from our leather bucket - and I shall always remember the delightful rest after fifteen hours travel upon the desert.
What a change, the next day, as we found ourselves at the terminus of the Suez & Cairo Railway. We were again within reach of steam and civilization after an absence of four months. As it happened the Australian & Bombay, steamer have arrived that day at Suez, and we went up with the like passengers to Cairo.
It was a great change to arrive after life on the desert to come again to the bustle and confusion attendant upon the departure of a railway train. Almost all the passengers were English on their way home from Australia and India, and the hurry and bustle of the people shouting for their luggage seemed to us indeed strange after our life in the desert. As we flew along over the desert towards Cairo in the comfortable English carriages, and saw camels here & there at the stations, I did not regret that this was to be my only means of conveyance for the future. I had tried both & preferred rail. In 5 comfortable hours we did the work of 3 days camelling & arrived at Cairo.”
“Athens, February 6th, 1859.
<…> It being now about a month since I left <…> We have been here now nearly a week busily engaged in visiting the many antiquities of this interesting city, and yesterday made an excursion to the Plain of Marathon on horseback, a distance of forty miles. This was a good day’s work and we were all glad to arrive again in Athens. <…> on Tuesday we leave on an excursion of eight days on horseback, carrying our own beds, cooking utensils &c., during which we shall visit Corinth. We came here from Corfu, touching at Ithaki, Kephalonia, and Zante…”
“Athens, February 22nd, 1859.
<…> Today we came back to Athens after an excursion of twelve days on horseback into the interior of Greece. We were four wuth our guide on horsebak, and besides we had two men and the cook who accompanied the mules which carried our luggage, beds, cooking utensils, &c.
All these arrangements were necessary, inasmuch as there are no inns in the interior, and as you are entirely dependant on the inhabitant of some hut for a shelter. However, in all the stations where travellers ordinarily stop the guides are sufficiently known by the inhabitants to obtain a hut for the night. We generally travelled few hours a day arranging about thirty-five miles. By rising at six, breakfasting and starting off before eight we usually arrived at our journey’s end about six in the evening, stopping an hour for lunch, on the way. Here we generally found the mules with our luggage already arrived and the dinner ready.
Sometimes however we all came in together and had an opportunity of witnessing the effect of our Grand Entrée. The guide after a little conversation with the inmates of some dwelling of rather more cleanly appearance than the others, would prevail upon them for a pecuniary consideration, to give up their dwelling to us for the night, and a few moments after, the family, men, women, children and babies would turn out and pass the time until next morning I suppose with one of the friends.
Upon getting off our horses and entering we generally found ourselves in a house or hut, of small dimensions, with a natural floor of earth, entirely destitute of furniture, with two holes (protected by rough wooden shuttles) for windows, and a fire place without a chimney. Our guide who had served the English officers in the Crimea during the war, had everything to make it comfortable, and soon the fire was lighted, and our table arranged with candles. He then occupied himself in “making up” and arranging our iron beds, which he carried and in an hour we were dining before a blazing fire, with three clean beds near us, which is a charming views to three men who have passed ten hours in the saddle. After dinner we smoked tranquilly for a hour or so, and then were very glad to turn in.
During our trip (with the exception of two days which were cold and rainy) we enjoyed delightful weather. In the middle of the day it was as warm as with us in May, and we have returned very much browned by the sun. We went through Boetia, as far north as the Thermopylae, and then turning southward, and crossing the Gulf of Corinth as far as Nauplia and Argos in the Peloponnessus, visiting Corinth and Mycene.
To me, Corinth and the Acro Corinthus, were more interesting than anything I have seen in Greece, even more than Thermopylae and Marathon. It was exceedingly interesting to read “The Siege of Corinth” on the spot, and apart from all historical associations the view from the summit of Acro Corinthus would alone repay one for the journey.
We have a capitol hotel here, and its comforts seem strangely luxurious after our journey. I find myself so comfortable by a nice fire in a large armchair with an easy smoking coat and slippers writing to you, My Dear Lishin. One must travel to appreciate the comforts of life. On Thursday we leave for Constantinople. <…> Your most affectionate brother, Moses B. Jenkins.”
[Fragment of Jenkins’ letter, ca. Constantinople, spring 1859].
“… to Buikdari on horseback where we had a fine view of the Bosphorus, and then through the forest of Belgrade over to the Black Sea, and back to Constantinople at night. We were ten hours in saddle, and went over fifty miles. I enjoyed the scene exceeding on Friday last when the Sultan went from his Pallace to the Mosque nearby. The promenade was very gay, with the music and soldiers of the Imperial Guard, and about twelve the Sultan appeared mounted on a splendid Arabian horse, surrounded by his suite, and as the band played a fine march the line of soldiers extending on either side of the street, presented arms to salute His Highness, & the beautiful little carriage filled with Turkish women, added to the gay scene. I saw some of the most beautiful faces I ever have seen that day. I may say I never saw at one time so many pretty women. Before coming here I always had imagined them to be miserable, languid looking creatures, apparently unhappy on account of being kept so much like slaves, but on the contrary they are exceedingly lively and coquettish, carrying on all sorts of fun with the young “swells” of officers about. I saw a beggar conveniently employed to take a message from an offier to a beautiful Georgian in a carriage near where I was standing, and as she waved her hand to him as her carriage drove off he puffed his cigarette with an air, that was a little too patronising.
I have been delighted with the Turkish baths which you undoubtely read descriptions of. By reading I however had formed no conceptions of them, and the ignorance of what I was to undergo perhaps added to the delightful reality. I was jumped upon, twisted about & rubbed for an hour the other day in a room where the thermometer was 150°, and then received a dash of cold water, the effect is delightful <…>”